
Well, the good news is that the Grand Canyon is so beautiful that no matter how much you have built it up in your head, it does not disappoint. The bad news, however, is that I picked up a nasty stomach bug, resulting in one of the worst night's sleep I've ever had and causing me to spend pretty much all Tuesday afternoon in bed. It is now 4:15am on Wednesday morning and after 12 hours of sleep, I am happy to report that I am feeling much better.
We got here to the Grand Canyon on Monday afternoon. We are actually staying inside the park at a place called Maswik Lodge. The place is nice and clean, but without any frills or air conditioning -- I can see Rick Steves staying here. After getting settled, we immediately set out on a quarter mile walk from our hotel room to the rim of the canyon.
I'm pretty sure that the Grand Canyon is one of the natural wonders of the world, but if it's not, it sure as heck should be as it is absolutely breathtaking! Standing on the rim of the canyon staring across the 10-mile wide chasm and realizing that it has been hundreds of millions of years in the making certainly puts things in perspective. I cannot remember ever feeling so insignificant.
Ashlee and I followed the Rim Trail east about half a mile or so to another of the lodges. Apparently the South Rim is also called the Grand Canyon Village and it boasts several lodges that are all operated by the same company and differing only in price and proximity to the canyon.
We ate dinner at a place called the Arizona Room. A little pricey, you are really paying for the spectacular view. Ashlee got lime chicken and I, ignoring Ashlee's stern look, opted for the baby back ribs in a spicy chipotle sauce.
After dinner, we meandered back along the Rim Trail a bit and just admired the scenery. We headed back to our hotel, grabbed a beer at the lounger (Fat Tire on tap!), and got back to our room just in time to catch "Dancing w/ the Stars." That's right, these past 6 weeks with our parents have turned us into big fat reality tv watchers. Heaven, help us.
After turning in a little early since we planned to catch the sunrise in the morning, I woke up at about midnight with terrible heartburn -- stupid spicy ribs, when am I ever going to learn? I took three or four tums and fitfully tried to get back to sleep. I awoke soon after, however, and realized it was more than just heartburn that was keeping me up. I made it to the bathroom just in time to er...lose my dinner. From then on, I was tossing and turning until morning.
The bright side of the situation is that my wife is a wonderfully caring and understanding woman and I was in very good hands. I stayed in bed until about 10am or so nibbling on toast, sipping water, and napping. At about 10:30, I felt well enough to go out.
This trip has allowed us to break in some of our REI gear for Mongolia. We both outfitted ourselves with our camel bags, hiking shoes and socks, and floppy sun hats (actually, Ashlee's isn't that floppy). If Annie and Alyssa could have seen us, they would have shaken their heads in disgust.
We caught the free shuttle to the Visitor's Center where we examined our options. We had both hoped to hike a portion of the Kaibob Trail, a trail that actually leads to the bottom of the canyon. Knowing how easy it is to get in over your head tackling such a trail, I was worried I wasn't well enough for the challenge. Instead we opted to trek along a 3-mile portion of the Rim Trail, a paved path that meanders along the rim of the canyon. It's probably one of the most beautiful walks I have ever taken.
The weather conditions were perfect: blue skies w/ a nice steady breeze and the visibility was great; we could see clear across the canyon. Every couple hundred of feet or so we would stop and just admire the view. I wouldn't say that the park was crowded, but there were definitely gaggles of fellow admirers. I was amazed at how diverse the crowd seemed to be. It seemed as if no two people we passed on the trail spoke the same language: French, German, Dutch, Spanish, Japanese, Chinese, Aussies, Southeast Asians, etc. It was amazing to know that no matter what language people were speaking, we were all saying the same thing: Man, how incredible is the Grand Canyon?
About halfway through our walk, I began to feel poorly again. Understanding and concerned as always, Ashlee suggested we make our way back to the road to catch the shuttle back to our room. By this time I had decided that it was not the flu that I had, but instead it was something I ate. This feeling was reinforced by the fact that every time I pictured those babyback ribs I had the previous night I shuddered in revulsion. I decided to press on.
We finished our walk and got back to our room by 12:30. I barely managed to kick off my shoes before flopping on the bed and falling asleep. Ashlee woke me up 20 minutes later; she went and got sandwiches and she wanted me to eat something. I didn't even want to move, but I decided to humor her. I sat at the table, took one bit of sandwich, and then immediately made a bee-line for the bathroom. So much for that, I thought.
I decided not to ask any more of my body and I spent the next 6 hours in bed. Ever attentive, Ashlee encouraged me to stay hydrated. I assured her that she shouldn't feel guilty if she wanted to go out and enjoy more of the canyon, but she stayed by my side nonetheless. In retrospect, this time in the room did allow her the perfect opportunity to finally finish Book 7 of Harry Potter and I did catch her napping at least once.
By 6:30pm I felt well enough to go out and catch the famed Grand Canyon sunset. Stepping outside and feeling the cool breeze, I could tell I was feeling much better. In fact, I was feeling so much better that after walking to the rim, I decided to treat myself to an ice cream cone. Ashlee was a bit weary about me eating dairy with an upset stomach, but she soon realized that there was chocolate ice cream in it for her and she gave in without protest.
There we were: it was sunset at the Grand Canyon and we were sitting on a rock wall with our feet dangling into the canyon below as we enjoyed delicious ice cream. It was gorgeous watching the falling light bring out all the shapes and shades of the canyon. It had to be one of the top ten moments of my life.
To make it even better, we made it back to our room in time to catch the second half of American Idol -- I swear I used to be the type of person who would devour things like The Economist and great literary works, but I really
have become a reality tv junkie!
After going to bed early last night I woke up bright and early at 4am. I was thrilled to discover that I was feeling much better and that my stomach had calmed down. Ashlee woke up just after 5am and we threw on our clothes and rushed down to the rim to catch the tail-end of the sunrise. As expected, it was marvelous -- hmm, can you tell that I'm running out of adjectives here?
We sat at the same spot as last evening with our feet dangling into the canyon. We were only mildly disturbed by the large group of pre-teen girls on a school outing behind us. I definitely did not envy the chaperone of the bunch.
At 6am we caught breakfast at the Bright Angle Lodge: warm oatmeal with sliced bananas. It hit the spot!
We're back in our room at the moment just relaxing. We're going to pack up in a bit and bid farewell to the Grand Canyon. Before we go, I promised Ashlee we could visit a few of the shops lining the rim. It's the least I can do for the excellent care she gave me yesterday.
So that's the first leg of our trip down. While part of me is a little bummed that I got sick and that it kept us from hiking into the canyon, Ashlee and I still had a wonderful time. Plus, lying around in bed all afternoon napping yesterday was extremely relaxing! Not to mention the fact that now we have a reason to return -- yeah right, like we need a reason to come back!
Today our end destination is Zion National Park in southwest Utah. It will be about a five-hour drive as first we need to drive east and then northwest to get around the Grand Canyon -- I guess it would disturb nature a bit to build a bridge across it, eh? Along the way we will be passing through Navajo Land, which Grandpa Jon has told Ashlee is rife with "shopportunities" and places to stop for fresh fry bread.
Oh, the sojourning life!