That's right, we're in
Bayan-
Olgii living the Peace Corps dream. We arrived back on August 22
nd and we have spent the past two weeks feeling our way around our new city and setting up house, the culmination of which was establishing our very own
internet connection. Yep, we have to pull our water from a well and use an outhouse, but we have wireless
internet. Go figure.
But yeah, I think that we really lucked out with our placement.
Olgii is the capital city of our province and it boasts 30,000 people and an airport with one unpaved runway. I'm not sure of the exact numbers, but the city, along with the province, is overwhelmingly Kazakh. While mostly everyone seems to know Mongolian and they recognize that they live in Mongolia, they closely identify with their Kazakh culture. The reason I say
mostly everyone is because there are people like our 80-year-old
hashaa grandmother who, although she seems to have traveled all over eastern Europe, only speaks Kazakh.
Olgii is a bustling little city perched near the Russian-Chinese-Mongolian border. We are a 3-hour plane ride from
UB, but if you aren't able to fork over the $600 for a round-trip ticket (yikes!) you have to suffer anywhere from 40-65 hours on a bus that takes you down into and through the Gobi Desert (double yikes!).
The people here in
Olgii all seem wonderfully nice. From what I have heard, since
Olgii is predominantly Kazakh and Kazakhs are predominantly Muslim, our new community does not have many of the vices enjoyed by the rest of Mongolia -- particularly public
drunkeness, which is fine by us. Although, thinking about it now, I'm not sure exactly how Muslim
Olgii is. I have not yet seen the mosque, I haven't witnessed any prayers, and we're about two weeks into Ramadan and I haven't noticed any fasting. Then again, whenever we are not at work, Ashlee and I are snugged up in our little house watching Friends. Ah, it's good to be reunited!
Speaking of work, I am officially a secondary school English teacher working at School #4, which is about a 5-minute walk from my house -- something that I will definitely appreciate come winter time and its -40 degree weather. My school has 1,500 or so students and 7 English teachers. At the moment I have a pretty loose job description. My only directions so far have been: (1) teach English; (2) help the English teachers with their English; and (3) develop an English club. It sounds pretty straightforward, but things work a little differently here in Mongolia than they do back home. For starters, there doesn't seem to be a set class schedule -- or at least one that I can figure out. I mean one class I taught was 80 minutes and the others have been 40 minutes. Also, I think who ever is in charge of the bell is a bit schizo -- sometimes it rings once and other times it rings about 20 times. I mean this morning the bell rang for class to end and I thought it was a fire alarm.
Speaking of alarms, we got our first snow yesterday -- I know that alarms don't seem to be related to snow, but let me finish the thought. So yeah, I woke up yesterday morning, extricated myself from my twisted-up sleeping bag, rubbed the sleep from my eyes, and stepped outside my front door for my 20-step jaunt to the outhouse when I was greeted by a burst of freezing air and a spectacular view of
Olgii's mountains blanketed in snow. Did I mention that
Olgii is surrounded by mountains? They are spectacular. Anyways, it seems that summer is definitely over and fall is making a mad dash into winter. The kind family that lives in our
hashaa (compound) and whom we rent our house from came over as soon as they noticed we were bustling about to check on us. When we first got here we made it clear that we come from California where the world pretty much ends when the mercury drops below 60 degrees. They found this hilarious.
After our family was assured that we were alive, they proceeded to show us how to make a coal fire. Here in
Olgii wood is scarce and heat is essential, so we get to burn coal. So they built a huge fire which warmed our little house right up. After they left, I checked the batteries in our carbon monoxide detector and sat as far from the fire as possible, completely paranoid that some invisible fumes were coming to assassinate my brain cells. The fire burned all morning and day and kept our place nice and toasty. When we came home from work and before leaving to our friend's house for dinner, we built another fire following our family's instructions. We came home a few hours later and we were welcomed in by our screeching carbon monoxide detector. Awesome.
Now, for another loose transition -- speaking of dinner, I forgot to mention that we have two other Peace Corps Volunteers (
PCVs) living with us here in
Olgii. Both of them came last year and they seemed to have adjusted to life here in
Olgii quite nicely. They have both been incredibly welcoming and very excited for us to join their little
PCV family. One of them, a fellow
TEFLer from Florida, is an incredible cook and she has made it clear that we are welcome over to her house for dinner three nights a week. We've gone twice so far and we have come home so ridiculously stuffed that it was almost like Thanksgiving. The first night she made sweet and sour beef, pasta salad, and lemon cake for dessert. Just last night she made burritos with fresh salsa and fudge cake. It was amazing.
I have to go for now. I've had the afternoon off but Ashlee had to go into work and she is just coming home now. I don't want her to walk in and realize that while she has been running around town with her counterpart I have been sitting here on my bum surfing the internet.
PS - Sorry for the seemingly erratic post. Hopefully now that we have access to the internet we can make more regular (and shorter) posts. Also, after spending two months learning two languages, it is surprisingly difficult to write (and think) in English.